(pokračování) Dopolední výlet na rozchození se vydařil. Vybaleno již máme tak je škoda nepokračovat i odpoledne. Do večeře je ještě daleko, to bychom mohli ještě pár kilometrů přidat. Balíme potřebné věci, doplňuji odměny pro Hyenu ať má motivaci a vyrážíme. Nic složitého nedáme, výlet plánuji tak max na 2,5 hodiny. Hyena už si stačila odpočinout od dopoledního treku a tak vyrážíme. Od pensionu klesáme pár stovek metrů níže kolem silnice až na odbočku po žluté značce u autobusové zastávky. Pár metrů od silnice již začíná I.zóna parku kolem Filipohuťského potoka.
Cesta jde příjemně z kopce, starý asfalt s místy štěrkových ostrůvků hřeje Hyenu do tlapek. Ta poslušně vyklusává kolem krajnice cesty. V okolních chalupách je živo. Někdo seká trávu na dvorku, jiný připravuje dřevo na zimu a u všech chalup je vidět, že je o ně dobře postaráno. Všechny až na vyjímky svítí novotou. Některé domy vypadají na celoroční provoz a ani studená zima (což je tu celkem často, skoro každý rok) není určitě problémem. Kolem stěn hromady perfektně vyskládaného dřeva do krbů, zateplené štíty a stěny obložené kamenem evokují pohodu a klid. Cesta lehce stoupá do mírného kopce k lesu. Z lesa voní houby a smůla. Cesta přestože se trochu narovnává a vidíme její zdánlivou nekonečnost před námi je příjemná. Sluníčko hřeje do zad a nám je fajn.
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Hyena načuhuje do lesa, snad cítí nějakou zvěř a ty škarpy kolem silnice co se střídají s kalužemi po včerejším dešti také nejsou vůbec marné. Je nutno všechno důkladně prozkoumat. Les okolo pomalu připomíná džungli. Trsy zelených mechů kolem stromů se střídají s keři ostružiníků a maliníků. Na chvilku zastavujeme a vůbec nepohrdneme nějakou tou ostružinou. I Hyenu to zajímá. Trhat se jí ale nechce a tak strká čumák do našich rukou, třeba něco odpadne na zem. Daří se, ostružiny jí evidentně moc chutnají a tak loudí o další úlovek. Odpadne či neodpadne? … a přeci jenom něco odpadlo. Paráda. Míjíme několik lesních cestiček hlouběji do lesa. Asi vedou k Lovčí skále vpravo. Stejná skoro neprůchodná cestička se objevuje i vlevo a ta jde pro změnu nejspíše pod Čertův vrch. Chodníčky míjíme a jdeme stále dále po cestě až na rozcestí u Černohorské nádrže.
Asfaltová cesta běží dále rovně, ale my jí opouštíme a dáváme se vpravo na prašnou lesní cestu k Ptačímu potoku. Kolem cesty je spousta borůvek. Hyena už ani neloudí a rovnou nám strká čumák do rukou s borůvkami. Potvora. Pár jich nakonec přeci jenom vysomruje. Je spokojená a na známku svého malého vítězství křepčí okolo nás. Jo začátek puberty je fajn. Myslím, že si ještě hoodně užijeme. Padáme z kopce dolů až k Modravskému potoku. Šotolinu opět pro změnu střídá popraskaný barevný asfalt. Cesta vlevo je cestou na Březník. Vždy když jsme tu byli jsme cestu na Březník nevynechali. Je škoda že bufet na Březníku byl na popud správců parku zrušen. Turisti, co sem míří se přeci nepotřebuji po tolika kilometrech občerstvit, dát si pivo, děti limonádu a kochat se při tom výhledem na Luzný. Nechápu. Druhé nejznámější místo, kam se turisti od Modravy vydávají a nemůžou si dát ani pivo. Hlavně že tu je pěkná zrekonstruovaná hájenka s restauračním sálem, kde se v koutku v dáli krčí pouze informační stánek kde se nudí jeden jediný zoufalý člověk (asi informační guru) a přepočítává těch 20 letáků co má na stole a které již dnes padesátkrát stihnul přepočítat. Jediným využitím tohoto lukrativního místa je výstava v podkroví o Karlu Klostermannovi, což je pekelně málo. A mluvit o roky uzavřené cestě k Luznému (ty 3 km cesty je nejstřeženější částí Šumavy kde jenom myšlenka na cestu znamená přinejmenším zastřelení kombinované s mučením a utopením v rašeliništi od správců parku) omílanou neustále dokola těžko pochopitelnými důvody je skoro ztráta času. Škoda. Přitom na německé straně je všechno v pořádku a k Luznému je přístup bezproblémový. Holt Šumava je na té naší straně „zelenější“ než na té německé.
To jsem ale trochu odbočil. Na asfaltové cestě se dáváme doprava směrem k Modravě. Potok je zde příjemně široký se spoustou balvanů. Hyena zavětřila vodu a tak dáváme pauzu na rochnění. Naše čuně skáče v potoce jak epileptická žirafa, voda cáká až na břeh. I na oblíbené potápění celé hlavy při lovení kamenů došlo. Zmoklou slepici lovíme z vody a míříme dále k Modravě. Modravský potok poslušně bublá kolem silnice. Chvilku je to pouze malý potůček, chvilku širší koryto. U cesty kolem se povaluje smotek rezavého ostnatého drátu. No bodejť by ne, není to to tak dávno co tato cesta sloužila jako rychlá a pohodlná spojka k pohraniční rotě a kasárnám, co byly na Březníku. Celé toto území bylo „za čárou“ a nepřístupné. I půlka Modravy byla již v hraničním pásmu. To už naštěstí neplatí. Les kolem je příjemně zelený, sice pár popadaných stromů kolem je také vidět, ale odbočit na této cestě do leva k Březníku otevřela by se za chvilku planina se suchými polámanými stromy zničenými kůrovcem, která se táhne skoro až do údolí Březníku. Ekologický experiment s kůrovcem v praxi. Není nad krásnou, ekologicky udržovanou Šumavu.
Modravu už máme na dohled. Za stromy se mihne pár prvních domů z Modravy. Potok poslušně mizí pod silničním mostem a sbírá síly na další klikatou cestu meandry za Modravou směrem k Tříjezerní slati a dále na Javoří pilu. Tato cesta je také moc pěkná a doporučuji určitě tento směr absolvovat. Potok se kroutí jak had krásným mělkým údolím, z jedné strany ohraničený lesem a kopci a z druhé jakbysmet. Pár zelených bříz se žlutozelenými listy ostře kontrastuje s rašeliní hnědou bublajícího potoka, který se kroutí a vine mezi vysokými zelenými trávami a občas přeskočí nějaký velký balvan. Zelený koberec se vlní v rytmu větru jak živý a jedovatá zelená ostřic u potoka se občas střídá s ostrůvky hnědé suché trávy. Celá louka je tak lehce kropenatá. Když jsou na obloze pěkné mráčky určitě ulovíte moc pěknou fotku. V Modravě se pak určitě stavte u Lyera. Je tu pěkný nový stylový hotel s restaurací, pivovarem a velkou terasou kde je moc pěkný výhled na celé údolí a Modravu. Pivko tu mají exelentní 🙂
My ale procházíme Modravou kolem infocentra dále. Parkoviště u potoka je sice plné, ale ne tak jako uprostřed léta. Prostě turistů výrazně na konci léta ubylo. Modravou vždy korzovaly v létě davy turistů promíchané s cyklisty, teď už je tu božský klid. U restaurace U všech kukaček zahýbáme doleva po zelené. Zastavuji a vytahuji flašku s pitím. Občerstvujeme sebe i Hyenu. Čeká nás závěrečný úsek cesty, jak jinak … do kopce. U Klostermannovy chaty vcházíme do lesa. Musíme dávat pozor, u stezky je hodně blízko natažen ohradník a na louce se pasou ovce. To Hyenu hodně zajímá. nebýt ohradníku už má nové kámoše na honění. Vysteresovaného psa po blízkém kontaktu s ohradníkem už jsme jednou viděli v Jizerkách. Majiteli trvalo dost dlouho ho chytit a uklidnit. Ohradník naštěstí končí a my se dáváme dále do lesa. Vpravo vykukuje mezi stromy střecha obludnosti patřící Bakalovi. Obrovský dům dle prvního pohledu neudržovaný o velikosti menšího činžovního domu jako by sem byl vpáčen násilím a nepatřil sem. Jo, peníze jsou velké lákadlo. Nebýt vybraných daní od Bakaly nebyla by Modrava nejbohatší českou vesnicí a nevypadala by tak, jak vypadá dnes. Je to vždycky něco za něco. Naštěstí je tento pohrobek utopen v lese a není krom této lesní cesty po které jdeme od nikud vidět.
Lesní cesta se střídá se štěrkovou. Byť je pozdní odpoledne musíme dávat velký pozor. Prý je kolem spousta zmijí. Je teplo a tak jsou i k večeru aktivní. Pro hyenu by to asi byla konečná, byť už má skoro 30 kilo. Žádnou ale nepotkáváme a pomalu se blížíme k Filipově huti. Na konci cesty míjíme rozestavěný dům. Byť nový je zřejmé, že tu dlouho už nikdo nepracoval. Dřevěná okna byla ještě nedávno nová jsou nyní po několika zimách jak z 30 let starého domu. Škoda. Dům je vcelku pěkný ale nedaří se ho dokončit. Pár kroků a už se otvírá panorama Filipovy hutě. Bohužel poslední asi kilometr musíme po silnici, jiná cesta tu nevede. Ale nevadí, Hyena už je po dvou dnešních výletech unavená a tak se daří i neoblíbená cesta u nohy. Pár pamlsků to ale spraví a pár posledních metrů k penzionu už na únavu zapomíná. Jsme doma. Byl to věru pěkný a vydařený den. Zítra se už těšíme na pokračování. Tentokrát budeme mít na výlet celý den.
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