Letos si to jaro s Hyenou užíváme vrchovatě. Opravdu není snad víkend abychom nevyrazili na nějaký pěkný výlet. Počasí zatím výletům přeje a tak naopak máme spíše problém s plánováním, neboť počet míst na mapě kolem Prahy kde jsme ještě nebyli se rapidně tenčí. Najít výlet který by nebyl moc daleko kvůli cestování, aby tam bylo něco pěkného k vidění, místo pro vypuštění Hyeny a navíc aby cesta byla pokud možno nějaký okruh je čím dál tím složitější. Slepých míst na naší cestovatelské mapě v okruhu do 100 km od Prahy rapidně ubylo. Minule jsme se věnovali Českému krasu, před tím Kokořínsku, ještě před tím Českému středohoří a teď? Teď se opět vracíme k Brdům. Brdy, ačkoli nejsou svojí výškou nějakými velehorami, ale spíše takovými zvlněnými kopečky jsou naším oblíbeným cestovatelským cílem. Myslím, že ještě nějakou dobu nám bude trvat, než je opravdu celé prochodíme křížem krážem. Tak, jak přibývají značené cesty touto kdysi vojenskou a nepřístupnou krajinou, tak se zvyšuje i počet zajímavých míst, kam se dá podívat. Bohužel, co je škoda je stále neúplná (a vlastně ani v současné době neprobíhá) tolik potřebná asanace.
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V Brdech a hlavně v bývalých výcvikových prostorech je spousta míst která by stála za navštívení, ale cesta k nim není zatím bezpečná. Je zde také několik zřícenin, rybníků, krásné a zatím neobjevené skály, vřesoviště, potoky a mokřady, plochy bývalých střelnic, bunkry z období války a mnoho dalšího. Konkrétně dopadové plochy vzhledem k celkovému odlesnění a dlouhodobé „střelecké péči“ vojáků jsou zdejším přírodním pokladem. Málokde najdete u nás podobné plochy s takovou květenou a biotopem jak tady v Brdech. Anebo by jste museli jet až na Šumavu nebo do Krušných hor.
No a za tímto naším pokladem jsme vyrazili. Brdy jsme nevzali útokem z jihu jako u našich předchozích výletů, ale nyní jsme pokořili jejich další velkou část ze severu. Cesta opět netrvala dlouho, slabých 45 minut. Pravda, někde cca 15 km před naším cílem jsme museli neplánovaně zastavit, neboť Hyena v autě začala vyšilovat jak stará hystérie. Uklidnila se až po vykonání potřebného v polích u Oseka. Ale to sem nepatří.
Plán byl, nechat auto někde na konci Dolní Kvaně, na samé hranici CHKO Brdy, neboť cesta dál nevedla a náš nástup na zelenou značku byl také zde. Za pomníkem 52.praporu PTP respektive lágru co tu byl a což byl i náš původní start treku, je sice takový kruhový plácek kde by zaparkovalo v klidu i 20 aut, ale místní nejspíše nechtějí, aby tu někdo parkoval. Z jedné i z druhé strany jsou zákazové značky. Nakonec jsme auto nechali o nějakých 80 m níže u bývalého konzumu.
Cestou nahoru jsme si alespoň mohli přečíst co je na pomníku napsáno. Kolem dlouhé ohrady a vodárny míříme po zelené značce směr kóta 610 ke studánce Pod Hranicí a dále k rozcestí K letišti. Jistě se ptáte, proč k letišti, tak vězte, že kdybychom na rozcestí odbočili ne po modré ale po žluté, k jednomu polnímu bychom došli. Respektive k jeho zbytkům.
Lesní vojenská asfaltka se střídá s pěknou širokou lesní cestou s udusaným štěrkem a šplhá nahoru do kopce. Ostatně tady v Brdech je to vždy do kopce z kopce. Les je plný vůní a také zvěře. Hyena co 20 m načuhuje se zdviženou přední tlapou do lesa což avizuje přítomnost nějaké srny nebo zajíce. Za vystavování by dostala určitě výbornou. Dostává tedy dlouhou stopovačku a můžeme pokračovat. Má relativní volnost, ale máme ji pod kontrolou. Přeci jenom, ty zdejší lesy to je 20 x 15 km prostoru, kde bychom ji hodně špatně hledali.
Smrkový les se střídá s buky a duby, u křižovatky K letišti také s březovým hájem. Co chvilku kříží cestu nějaký potok, co s hukotem mizí za propustkem v silnici kdesi v lese. Za křižovatkou K letišti opouštíme příjemnou lesní cestu, abychom šlapali dál po staré vojenské asfaltce a naši společnost bude dělat modrá značka. Krajina kolem cesty se trochu otevírá a mezi stromy probleskuje jedovatá zeleň několika luk a pasek.
Pak najednou les končí. Průsekem v lese je vidět odlesněný kopec s bunkrem v dáli. Přicházíme blíže. I vlevo u cesty je bunkr, který před chvilkou nebyl úplně vidět. Úzká štěrbina pozorovací místnosti k cestě se ještě jednou opakuje směrem k průseku. Je to starý německý pozorovací bunkr. Ten a ještě mnoho dalších tu za války vybudoval wermacht jako pozorovatelny, neboť po zabrání Československa si zdejší cvičiště zabrala německá armáda. Bunkr vypadá moderně, zdi jsou tlusté více jak 2 m a dohlédnout štěrbinou z venku do bunkru není dost dobře možné.
Hyenu nechávám i přes její hlasité protesty venku a jdu bunkr prozkoumat. Z batohu beru malou baterku, co už standardně sebou na výlety nosím. Úzká chodbička se lomí vlevo tak i vpravo. Vlevo je velká místnost s pozorovatelnou a vzadu ještě jedna. Bunkr je suchý a s podivem i uklizený. Žádné odpadky či bordel jako jinde. Nikdo by neřekl, že zde stojí už více jak 80 let.
Od bunkru je krásný výhled na celou planinu pod kopcem Houpák. V dáli je vidět ještě jeden větší bunkr a několik menších. Vpravo kolem lesa pokračuje asfaltka po které jsme přišli a vine se těsně na hranici lesa. Celý kopec je odlesněný a dokonce až odtud jsou vidět krátery po granátech, rozseté všude po celé ploše kopce. Za bunkrem uprostřed prosvítá jarní slunce a dotváří tak neopakovatelnou magickou atmosféru. Scéna před námi je mi povědomá, z mysli vytahuji detaily a už vím, v kterém filmu si bunkr na kopci před námi zahrál. Nechám si to zatím pro sebe, ještě se sem dnes vrátíme.
U německého bunkru uděláme vlevo hleď a kolem závory, dnes otevřené a na hraně dopadové plochy šlapeme po modré dále do lesa. Chceme si cestu ještě prodloužit a tak nás čeká takový malý okruh kolem Dlouhého kamene a až pak teprve návštěva všech bunkrů na planině. Přeskakujeme spadlý strom asi od poslední bouřky a noříme se po modré značce do lesa.
Štěrk najednou na cestě končí a k našemu překvapení ho střídá vcelku pečlivě provedená a vyskládaná dlažba z lámaného kamene, mizící až někam za zatáčku. Možná tu vojáci jezdili i tanky a potřebovali zpevněnou cestu, kdo ví. Rozcestí u Mariiny studánky je jako každé jiné. Informační cedule oznamují, že brzo dojdeme až ke studánce. Mohli bychom po modré pokračovat dále až kamsi k Rusínské boudě pod Tokem. Tam my ale nejdeme. I když, i tuto cestu už známe a to z našeho výletu kolem Toku.
Zelená značka nás po asfaltce zavede až k Mariině studánce. Je vidět, že i tady v Brdech, v zapomenutém koutě světa se něco děje. Studánka je nově opravená, kamenné kruhové korýtko s křišťálovou vodou a hned za ním nový dřevěný přístřešek ještě svítící novotou. U studánky je uříznutý kmen stromu, který nyní slouží jako stoleček pro hrníčky. Přístřešek je sundaný a je vidět, že ho brzo na studánku vrátí. Kouzelné a nečekané místo tady uprostřed země nikoho, daleko od nejbližší vesnice.
Hyenu necháme vycákat se v malém jezírku, co se vytvořilo pod výtokem vody ze studánky a pokračujeme. Cesta se kroutí serpentýnami lesem až k dalšímu velkému průseku. To je další dopadová plocha, tentokrát Tok. Cesta jde těsně na hranici plochy a lesa. Z cedulek se dozvídáme, že na ploše je nyní cenný biotop paradoxně vzniklý a neustále obnovovaný střelbou a výbuchy. Vřesoviště, ne nepodobné chráněným vřesovištím na Šumavě nebo Jizerkách se táhne až kamsi za obzor. Občas volnou plochu narušuje nějaký osamělý strom či keř.
Než se opět vnoříme na chvilku do lesa míjíme jakýsi pomníček. Křížek, fotografie a datum. Rok 2011. Podle ozubeného kola přidělaného na kameni vedle křížku hádáme na nějakého cyklistu. Co se zde stalo však není z pomníčku zřejmé. Bohužel ani později se mi nepodařilo nic vygooglovat.
Opět rozcestí. Dlouhý kámen. Opouštíme asfaltku a po lesní cestě se dáváme vlevo. Cesta vede chvilku do kopce a chvilku padá napříč vrstevnicemi dolů. Netrvá to dlouho a otevírá se další průsek v lese. Jsme na druhé straně Houpáku, cedule u cesty oznamuje krásnou vyhlídku. To, co vidíme před sebou je ten další skrytý bunkr, který jsme neviděli ale pouze jenom tušili že tu musí být, když jsme byli před pár hodinami na druhé straně sektoru u německého bunkru.
Na hraně kopce na jeho vrcholu je na konci polní cesty vedoucí holou plání s keři a uschlou trávou vidět bunkr. Je to bunkr na Houpáku, na jeho vrcholu. Je to opět německý bunkr, který sloužit jako 360° pozorovatelna celé plochy cvičiště kolem. Pomalu k němu míříme. Hyenu pouštím na volno, přeci jenom nám to bude trvat déle než tam dorazíme a to všechno s vědomím, že kolem cesty jsou desítky a stovky kráterů po výbuchu granátů a kdo ví, co nevybuchlého se může dále od cesty ještě na planině schovávat. Navíc v létě je tu prý hojný výskyt zmijí, což naštěstí v tento brzký jarní den ještě nehrozí.
Celá tato plocha není asanována, proto také červená značka na druhé straně oblasti se lomí vlevo a prostor obchází, na té naší straně se prudce lomí také vlevo a mizí v lese. Bude ještě dlouho trvat, než bude celá oblast vyčištěná. Armáda odtud odešla teprve v roce 2006. Celá plocha sloužila jako dělostřelecká dopadová plocha, cvičili se zde také letecké útoky a bombardování a také testovaly různé zbraně. Pěchotní srub, kam dojdeme až si prohlédneme Houpák je jeden z mála Československých bunkrů zde vybudovaných. Ten sloužil jako vzorový pro testování pěchotních zbraní a vybavení pevností, jež měli po roce 1938 sloužit jako obraná linie Československa.
Hyena se naštěstí drží cesty a našla i nějaký klacek či starý kolík, kterému se nyní intenzivně věnuje. Docházíme k bunkru. Je to stejný typ jako dole na druhé straně, kde jsme už byli. Úzká pozorovací štěrbina, tentokrát pouze na jedné straně, druhá strana bunkru je krytá masivním zemním valem. Uvnitř je pouze jedna jediná menší místnost, cesta do ní je plná kamenů betonu a trosek. Dovnitř tedy nejdeme. Čelní stěna bunkru je posetá stovkami důlků po střelách, nahoře nad štěrbinou je i velký trychtýř plný malých rýh a důlků po zásahu šrapnelem nebo raketou. Někdo tady měl přesnou mušku.
Vylezeme na střechu bunkru a kocháme se panoramatickým výhledem po celém prostoru Brd. Při hezkém počasí je prý odtud vidět až k Šumavě či do Krušných hor. Teď ale docela dost fouká, slezeme tedy dolů a v závětří bunkru se občerstvujeme. Hyena se neustále dožaduje štěkáním hry a házení větví a klacků. Teprve pár sušenek ji přesvědčuje, že štěkat se nemá. Jsme tu zcela sami, nikde ani noha.
Zvedáme se a po kamenité cestičce prostředkem dopadové plochy míříme dolů k dalším bunkrům. Houpák necháváme za zády a sestupujeme k bunkru CE, což je kódové označení typového cvičného pěchotního srubu. Mineme po cestě ještě několik menších bunkříků s jednou malou místnůstkou, nyní ale většinou zničených. Evidentně sloužili jako cvičné cíle pro granáty. Střelba byla vcelku úspěšná, trosky jsou všude okolo.
Pár kroků a jsme u našeho hlavního cíle cesty. Pěchotní vzorový cvičný pěchotní srub. Vybudovala ho Československá armáda někdy kolem roku 1936 s celkovým nákladem 880.000 Kč. Sloužil jako vzorový a jako testovací centrum pro zbraňové systémy pohraničních pevností a později i jako cvičný cíl jak německé armády tak i té naší poválečné. Je s podivem, že přes všechny ty zásahy je vcelku málo poničený. Někde jsou sice vytrhané kusy betonu na střeše a kolem střílen a ocelolitinový zvon ostřelovací věžičky na vrcholu nese mnoho stop po zásazích jak pěchotních zbraní tak granátů, ale přes to všechno je bunkr v dobrém stavu.
Všechny vstupy do bunkru jsou uzavřené, ten hlavní je zasypaný a pojištěný několika betonovými panely. Je to škoda ale chápu to. Bunkr má mít celkem dvě podlaží, nahoře jsou střelecké pozice, velitelská část a strojovny, dole pak ubikace posádky a sklady. Z horního patra je přístupná i střelecká věž v ocelovém zvonu.
Teď k otázce, co padla v úvodu. Jestli jste neuhádli až do teď, prozradím film, jehož jedna ze slavných scén se zde natáčela. Jedná se o Obecnou školu z roku 1991. Scénou je školní výlet do pohraničí spojený s nalezením a zneškodněním panzerfaustu na louce za bunkrem.
Tak bunkry jsme zde zmapovali a můžeme pokračovat dále v naší dnešní cestě. Více jak polovinu již máme za sebou. Tohle byla ta nejzajímavější část naší dnešní cesty. Po asfaltce pod bunkry směřujeme k dalšímu zdejšímu pomníčku. Je to pomníček novodobý a připomíná havárii letadla L-159 z roku 2003. Pilot se tehdy nestačil katapultovat a zahynul zde.
Od pomníčku je vidět opět náš starý bunkr na Houpáku, ten ale necháváme být a cestou pod ním se vracíme zpět na červenou turistickou značku. Hyena má ještě volno až k lesu u rozcestí. Červená značka nás vede po hranici dopadové plochy stále lesem dolů. Les střídají holé pláně a ty následně i březové háje. Skoro si připadám jak někde v Rusku v Tajze. Míjíme a obcházíme celou dopadovou plochu a na Dlouhém vrchu na rozcestí potkáváme náš poslední bunkr. Respektive trosky, co z něj zbyly.
Celý bunkr vypadá, jako by ho někdo podminoval a vyhodil do vzduchu. Masivní strop je utržený od stěn, pozorovací střílny jsou popraskané a rozbité a trosky vstupu se válí všude kolem. Typuji to spíše na řízený testovací odstřel než zásah granáty. Bunkr je trochu stranou od střelnice.
Červená značka nás táhne opět do lesa. Hyna již opět vyklusává na stopovačce a ušlých asi 15 km je znát. Jak na Hyeně tak i na nás. Dorážíme na rozcestí u Kváně, pokračujeme kolem studánky pod Dlouhým vrchem až na křížení s cyklostezkou č. 2252. Po té se dáváme doprava. Asi po 1,5 km přicházíme k hájovně na Okrouhlíku. Hájovna je na úplné samotě. Dohadujeme se, jak mohla fungovat, když tu byl uzavřený vojenský prostor. K smysluplnému závěru však nedocházíme.
Od hájovny je to dalších 1,5 km k naší odbočce na zelenou, kde jsme před několika hodinami odbočovali a posléze ještě asi 600 m k autu. Už jsme unaveni, nohy na tvrdém asfaltu bolí, dokonce i Hyena se už dokonale uklidnila. Alespoň teď víme, že její hranicí vyčerpanosti a bodem zlomu od zlobení ke klidu je 20 km. Příště to už budeme vědět a naše výlety tak budou 30 km+ ? . Ne to asi nebudou.
Poslední závora, vodárna, pomník, pár kroků a jsme u auta. Vyčerpáni, ale spokojeni usedáme a suneme se zpět směr domov. Poučný, chvílemi i slunečný a dlooouuuhý vyýlet to dnes byl.
Kus pro nás neznámých Brd jsme prochodili a velká část nás ještě čeká.
Petr – smečkočlen ?
P.S.: prosím jedna poslední ale důležitá poznámka na závěr. Až se sem vypravíte, buďte opatrní. Byť je spousta turistických cest již značena a bezpečná, pořád je více než 90% oblasti ještě neasanováno a nevyčištěno. Chcete-li se jako my podívat na ty nejzajímavější místa nikdo vám jistě nebude bránit. Cesta k nim je bezpečná. Pohybujte se ale výhradně po lesních a polních cestách a v blízkém okolí bunkrů. Určitě nechoďte dále na dopadovou plochu ani do blízkých lesů. Pořád tu může být a skutečně i je spousta nevybuchlé munice. A to nepočítám již zmíněné zmije na holých planinách a vřesovištích.
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